Thursday, May 24, 2012

Parachute: The return...in 3D



Part II…The Return


Mercifully we took in all lines and sailed toward the claw of Haiti to rendezvous with CGC THETIS to take 183 migrants of their deck.  This was the easy part; get the migrants, bring them back to Cuba, and wait for someone to take them.  My experience with Haiti was limited to TV reports and stories from other Coasties.  I assumed they were not that smart, didn’t have much pride, not clean, basically not a fine people.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.  We had a reasonably uneventful transfer with the 270 and started a slow steam back.  Although at one point during the transfer the deck was a wee bit unorganized and the Captain polity requested (read: ordered) that our XO get below and take charge.  This was a Mastercard-esque moment…the look on XO’s face was priceless.

The migrants on deck were from the same village and made every effort to recreate some semblance of order.  They made an area for families with kids, asked for paper and pens and made meal tickets to ensure everyone received a meal, and at night sang songs together.  Someone produced a bible and they seemed have an organized study group every night.  One gentleman came forward who spoke passable English and assumed the role of de facto leader.  When some of the younger men, late teens early and twenties acted up and tried to cut in line, the group policed themselves.  Every morning they had their own version of sweepers to keep the deck clean, when the realized that the showers were saltwater, they respectfully asked for freshwater for bathing.  Even though we had limited water the Captain decided to grant their request. 

This experience was quite the lesson learned for a young junior officer named Dow.  Families with small children, pregnant women, men older than my grandfather all tried to escape in an unseaworthy sailboat…risk everything to get away from Haiti.  Nothing in my mind could comprehend what would drive other people to such ends.  I then realized I had truly been an ass making the assumptions I did.  These were a fine group of people only wanting to improve their lives and provide a better one for their children.  How is that not an admirable trait, yet here we were preventing them from coming to the United States and sending them back.  It was one of those trips.

We made it back to GTMO and tied up to old battleship quays (pronounced “keys” by the way don’t blame me, I’m not Webster).  We were not ashore per se…we could secure the mains (turn off the engines) but no brow, no access to the base.  Unfortunately we needed more supplies and a lot of them--quickly.

I was the XO’s Admin Assistant was a kind way of saying I was his bitch boy…it wasn’t a glamorous jon—which meant I was in for the task of my career…being a bitch boy and all…

The XO called me into the wardroom to give me my quest, a pep talk, and a quick kick in the ass to get off the boat.

“OK, here’s the list of things we need.  You have as much time as you need.  Good luck.”

I looked at the list:

·      Enfamil…what in God’s green earth is Enfamil?
·      Diapers, Depends…are you kidding me?
·      Tarp from SIMA…where in the hell is SIMA?  What the hell is SIMA?
·      I can’t even pronounce the name of this pump…(probably from Viking)
·      Log and weather sheets…no way, we ran out of log sheets?
·      About 10 other items ending with…a parachute.
OK…enough!!

“XO, parachute…parachute, what the **** do we need a parachute for, a parachute” hoping that repetition of the word parachute would make it go away.

“The migrants.”

“Sir, I know the migrants, but what are going to actually do with a parachute?”

“Shade.”

“Sir, what is the tarp from SIMA (still don’t know where that it) for?”

“Shade.”

It was one of those trips.

All right I tried another line of questions.

“Is the YN (yeoman…administrative expert) or the SK (storekeeper…supply expert) coming in to help out?”

“Neither, too busy here, you are on your own.”

Suppressing a sigh that probably would have gotten me dismissed from the Coast Guard I asked “Well, how do I pay for this stuff?”  In my ensign addled mind, a perfectly legitimate question.

“Yeah, about that…do your best…can’t help you there.”

You got to be kidding me…

“OK, what radio can I get, probably not one of the coded one, they…”

“No radio, can’t spare ‘em with the security teams.”

It was one of those trips.

So, I went to the buoy deck, took a little boat ride to the base on the RHI (rigid hull inflatable boat) and was left on the pier by myself.  No money, no help, no radio, and when I asked about a government vehicle the XO actually laughed out loud and left the wardroom shaking his head.

At this point I had little to no idea what half this stuff was let alone where to get it.  So I figured diapers and Depends were the easiest…I’d just go to the exchange and maybe from there figure out where the DRMO (supply depot) was located.  I had to walk—remember no vehicle—and after only an hour of aimless wondering found a sign that lead to the exchange.  It turns out that Enfamil is some obscure form of baby food and not too far from diapers, Depends were easiest enough to find.  And on the way out I passed the record department (although records are pretty much extinct…it will always be the record department to me).  Well a few weeks prior to our arrival U2 released Achtung Baby, their breakthough and break away record (I was and still am partial to WAR….there best effort in my mind)…well I am a slight U2 fan so I thought I’d pick up the cassette (yes cassette, records, I am apparently old to these young bucks…).  Well you wouldn’t believe the consternation this caused while on my Quest for the Grail:

Is it legal for me to buy this cassette?
Is it fair for me to get this and no one else can?
What if someone finds out that I used an official trip for personal business?

Wait…wait…wait a minute…I’m at the exchange in GTMO Cuba buying BABY food, with my OWN money, and I have to find a friggin’ parachute somewhere on this hell hole!!!  Momentary moral dilemma solved…I bought the record and couldn’t wait to get back and finally listen to it.

At this point I have exactly three things on my albatross list (plus the cassette) and I am now forced to scramble to locate various and sundry items, cold calling places by begging Navy offices to let this Coast Guard ensign to use their phones.  You should have seen THOSE conversations and better yet my explanations:

“Hello, my name is ENS—“
“I don’t care, what do you want?”
“Yeah, OK, see I’m on the buoy tender that—“
“What the hell is a buoy tender?”
Again with one of my patented self contained sighs…stay focused here, killer.
“Yeah, here to help with the Haitian migration issue, I just—“
“Kid, we are in Cuba not Haiti.”
And so on, it was one of those trips.

So they day went on with my trying find this conifal valve or that moondande converter.  It got to the point where I would stash my loot in bushes because I couldn’t carry it all.  At one point a van with three Coast Guard YNs passed me and gave me lift (I don’t think they knew I was an ensign) and took me to SIMA of all places.  Tarp recovered!

Two items left.  Log sheets and that damn parachute.  I had a buddy on COURAGEOUS and was confident I could get the log sheets, but a parachute.  I was asking, pleading, begging, cajoling people all day and they looked at me with glassy eyes and told me to trundle away.  If this wasn’t tilting at windmills nothing else was, but I felt a need to get this damn parachute and return triumphantly to LAUREL.

One final call, one shot, a warehouse on the edge of town, that no one goes to.  The van YNs turned me on to this; kind of a recycling plant, spare parts drawer, catch all building.  I got the number and went through my routine explaining to just get to the phone and made the fateful phone call. 

“Yeello” the voice on the other end sounded bemused.
“Yes, I heard you carry some miscellaneous supplies.”
“Yep, sure do.”  He liked his “Y”s.
“Yeah, I need to get a, ahh, I was wondering if you had a…well” here it goes…”a parachute.”  I just expected to get humiliated by this.
“You are kidding me” here it comes…”can you be here in 10 minutes?”—very hushed tones…shhhhhhh we are hunting saber toothed wabbits…
“You are serious? I’ll be right there” like I could say anything else…even though I had no car, no directions…you remember.

I somehow found my way to an apparently abandoned looking warehouse that was clearly not abandoned.  A gentleman wearing a greasy ball cap and non-military coveralls sat behind a counter reading a year old issue of Popular Something.  He glanced at me and asked:

“You have to be that ensign that called.  Your lucky day kid”
He had no idea.

He pulled out a crumpled paper grocery bag that was in its at least 27th use and placed squarely on the center of the counter.  And what to my wondering eyes did appear but a red and white parachute…queue the “Hallelujah” music.

“How much?”
“Nothing…just got it and its not on inventory.”
No way.  “Thanks, man, you have no idea.”

It’s sad to say but to that point in my career this was the crowning achievement (and looking back it may still be).  I still had to get the logs but I spent the better part of eight hours on this base and got everything on my list! 

I went to COURAGEOUS, talked to a friend of mine, got the logs and borrowed a radio.  LAUREL sent over the RHI and with a landing party I gathered up my hidden treasure to make my way back to the cutter.  En route I called the bridge and asked to talk to the XO.

“LAUREL, LAUREL 1…is the XO on the bridge”
“Roger that.”
“Can you ask him to go to the bridge wing?”

Our intrepid XO emerged from the bridge in time to see me in the front of the RHI a la GEN Macarthur with the parachute raised over head in Stanley Cup fashion.

“How’s this for a parachute…that’s right….right here buddy…take this parachute and…” I said more but I wasn’t as tough as I sounded…the XO couldn’t hear a word.

The supplies made it aboard…and the parachute…never went to the buoy deck.  When I left mighty LAUREL eighteen months later I searched our cargo hold for about six hours looking for that damn thing to take as a trophy.  It was gone.  It was one of those trips.  On an interesting note I made the Captain’s Christmas newsletter…he mentioned that I had some untapped talents in “acquisitions” and likened me trip as a cross between MASH and McHales’s Navy…I guess it was good to be known for something!

There is more to the story about LAUREL’s trek ashore and ringing the bell at the O-Club, but that my friends is story for another day…

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Bruno


"Does anyone know where the love of God goes
When the waves turn the minutes to hours"

This really happened...

Its early morning in Cape Cod Bay and mighty GRAND ISLE is pounding through 50 knots of wind in waves that eclipse the bridge windows. I am sitting in the Captain's chair on the bridge clutching a cup of coffee (I know that is a stretch for you to believe), but I can't drink it because every time I raise the mug to my lips the ship shutters, shimmies, and jolts like Poseidon himself is tossing us around willy nilly.

The young quartermaster behind me has been seasick multiple times on this watch...I have had it...we are getting crushed and quite honestly for the first time in my career I am a wee bit scared.

I keep telling myself I asked to for this command...whatever...

"Bruno"

"Yes, sir"

"How far to the Gloucester Sea Buoy?" and implied in that question is really how far until we are safe.

"37 nautical miles, sir."

That answer makes ME feel seasick...so I wait, and wait...

Still waiting...

"Bruno"

"Sir"

"Distance" the constant pounding has reduced us to just over monosyllabic conversations

"36.7 miles, sir"

Oh dear, God...

"Bruno"

"Sir"

"Should I stop asking."

"Please, sir"

And that is a no shitter conversation...

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Bring me a parachute!


Bring me a parachute!

 

It was one of those trips...

 

The mighty COAST GUARD CUTTER LAUREL had just spent the previous five weeks working ATON (Aids to Navigation…the fancy term for buoys) in and around San Juan harbor.  

 

This particular buoy run began on Halloween 1991, and if you are a keen observer of nautical history, that means something.  The “Unnamed Storm” of 1991 that crushed the North Atlantic and famously became Sebastian Junger’s “Perfect Storm” had just passed.  This storm, battering the New England coast a thousand miles to the north, sent waves and waves (and by waves, I’m talking some serious, meclizine jonesing swells) cascading down the eastern seaboard; LAUREL spent five days—which should have been a four-day trip—beam to the swell system or as I like to remember fondly; “living on the bulkheads”.  Now the 180’ WLB (Ocean Going Buoy Tender), retired a few years ago, was a fantastic Coast Guard cutter…however, it road like a football in any seaway.  Rolling from side to side became a vocational trade aboard…it wasn’t fun, but the story starys a bit.

 

LAUREL had finished her assigned workload despite breaking down with an MDE (main diesel engine) casualty for five days.  Our estimated ETA to Mayport was approximately (author’s aside: I hate it when people say estimated, approximately and ETA together—drives me crazy!!) Thanksgiving morning at 0800, but (“but” the ubiquitous and quite frankly nondescript word that gives way to so many sea stories) the Haitian government had recently undergone significant upheaval, and Coast Guard assets across the Atlantic were streaming toward GTMO to help prevent a maritime disaster.  Haitian migrants were taking to the sea in anything that could float and some things that couldn’t.  

 

Upon departing GANTSEC (San Juan), District 7 (our boss in Miami) briefed the LAUREL CO (Commanding Officer) that they may need us to divert and assist with the relief effort.  LAUREL left San Juan with just enough food to make it back to Mayport and not much extra; the deck was covered with old buoy hulls, used sinkers (MEGA concrete blocks used to anchor buoys to the ocean floor), and worn chain with no room to do a proper inspection around deck; the crew was tired after twelve to fourteen hour buoys days followed by overnight steams to the next harbor.  Overall we were relieved to be heading home in basically one piece.

 

Less than a day out of San Juan, I was breaking in as the OOD (a young buck officer training to be the Officer of the Deck) with the XO.  The familiar routine of underway watch quickly descended upon LAUREL until we received word from COMMSTA Miami for the CO to contact the Seventh District Command Center.  To quote the Kenny Rogers’ song “you could hear a pin drop on the floor”,--you really couldn’t because of the fatigue matting, and we had a deck, not a floor, but the concept is the same.  We all knew what was coming.


After his call to Miami, the Captain left the Radio Room…wait for it…

 

“XO, get OPS, the First Lieutenant and the EO in the wardroom, and have Mr. Mooradian relieve the watch.”  The Captain left the bridge with an air of certain dispatch…the rest of the officers followed him along the Green Mile.

 

About ten minutes later, our CO came back to the bridge and took the 1MC (a ship-wide loudspeaker…it’s the military…get used to it) in hand and made the following announcement:

 

“For the information of all hands (standard for all pipes by this old man, or any old man in a seagoing service), LAUREL has been diverted to Guantanamo Bay, Cuba to assist in the Haitian migration situation.  Our return to Mayport is unknown at this time. That is all.”

 

And that was it…we were en route GTMO, jewel of the Caribbean, the port call of port calls, the place…whatever, it was a military base on a communist island.  LAUREL had to figure out what to do; in my six short months aboard, we had done exactly NO MULTI MISSION work, strictly ATON.  

 

The closer we got to GTMO, the more radio traffic, Coast Guard or otherwise, increased.  We tried to call our brother cutters with little success.  It turns out that LAUREL had never loaded codes to the secure radios…we were broadcasting in the clear all night and never picked up on the other boats yelling at us that we were, basically, incompetent…it was one of those trips.

 

Upon arriving at Cuba, we made preparations for entering port around 0700, including the bridge crew wearing tropical blue long uniforms…I’m not sure why either—to impress the mighty collection of cutters there, I suppose.  We were a buoy tender for god’s sake, not some 378!  It was December and a bit “rolly” out at the entrance; nothing extreme, but 180 don’t have a keel in any true sense, and the boat had a proclivity toward rolling when you least expected it or wanted it.  As a young ensign out of the Academy, I was not exactly “sea savvy.”  I sat down to breakfast with relish…eggs over easy, soggy bacon, couple pieces of toast, and a full glass of ice-cold milk (some of the last milk we had).  The 1LT was beside me with a slight, knowing grin growing on his face and had a smaller plate and nothing to drink in front of him.  

 

I never saw what hit me.

 

We took a patented LAUREL roll to starboard, and the plate and glass of milk decided that my trop pants would break their fall to the wardroom deck.  So with about 8 minutes until we set navigation detail, I’m wearing my formerly cleanest pair of dress pants, and they have just been introduced to the cook’s best breakfast…and a full glass of milk.

 

“Well, there is a good lesson learned their young Jeff” the 1LT had a manner about him that told me he thought I was an idiot but would not come right out and say I was an idiot.

 

“In my experience, I’m not willing to put on my plate or in my glass anything that I wouldn’t be willing to wear.”  

 

I wanted to utter a famously, outrageously remarkable comeback, but all I muttered was a perfunctory:

 

“Thanks, Dan.”

 

Because it was at that moment that I realized he was right, and his psalm-like advice was some of the best I’ve received in my career, and I’ve been more than willing to share that with my shipmates in the past 16 years.  Again, it was that kind of trip.

 

After a quick change into a new pair of dress trou, I headed to the bridge and our destiny ahead of us (that sounds a bit too Titanic, but hey, it’s my story…).  We steamed into GTMO with all the grace a 180 could muster and found ourselves amongst the largest collection of Coast Guard cutters in any one port since World War II; in all honesty, it was an impressive sight; 210s, 270s, some of the legacy MECs and a 378.  Coming in and out of port regularly, the pointy end of the tip of the Coast Guard spear, those absolutely fantastic, powerful, tough, defenders of freedom, the 110’ patrol boats (yes, I may be a bit biased, but again, it’s my story…you don’t like 110s write something yourself).  Bottom line, I think the rest of the fleet felt an immense weight lifted from their collective shoulders as LAUREL quietly glided into port…help was finally here…one black hull…we…were...going to…save…the…day!

 

We may have had a few challenges (I think consultants would call them “opportunities”).  We had little food for ourselves, no security to speak of, no supplies of any sort for migrants, low on fuel and water, no codes for the radios (even if we knew how to load them), basically no clue on what to do.  

 

We had GTMO right where we wanted them…I don’t think they knew what they were in for by bringing in a black hull.

 

XO gathered his minions together--back then, I was but a mere minion, my lot in life has improved somewhat—and developed a game plan.  As FSO and Admin officer, I was tasked with getting migrant , and my cooks had to scrounge whatever victuals they could roust out for the crew.  The deckies had to figure out a way to clear more than 50 tons of buoys from the deck, clean it up, and develop a security plan.  The engineers refueled, came up with a head and shower configuration and a water conservation policy (LAUREL could not make water).

 

I left for parts unknown (I think every sea story needs a “parts unknown” clause) to find out what supplies to get and how to get them.  After a bit of bureaucratic double speak I found the Coast Guard liaison officer, and he helped me procure hundreds of pounds of rice and beans.  The YN and SK also received some training on how to process our future guests aboard LAUREL.  I think my division has done a pretty good job of prepping the cutter for our mission.  What did I know, I was an ensign…

 

The three of us returned to a cutter amid a chaotic CF of a scene in progress.  Deckies scrubbing the buoy deck with hand brushes, DCs building toilettes, and showers, truck after truck dropping off blankets, shower shoes, soda, food (migrant and LAUREL), our guys were coming back in trucks, vans, Cushman carts, you name it.  My SK, , and I are walking back with nothing in hand.  Our 300 pounds of rice and beans haven’t made it.  The XO is on the quarterdeck orchestrating this act, and he looks at us and gives us the “I appreciate you getting into the fight” condescending look of someone too busy to be bothered.  It was one of those trips…

 

As I am wallowing in my pathetically feeble attempts to assist in the effort, another pickup truck screams down the pier.  LAUREL’s ET2 came out from behind the wheel with an MK2 and proceeded to offload supplies rivaling WALMART.  More rice and beans than I even ordered (and still had not shown up to the pier….whatever…), flip flops, soda, turkeys, TURKEYS no less, potatoes, milk, playing cards…it was one of those days. 

 

I pulled aside ET2 and asked how he did this.  A wry sort of look worked across his face.

 

“Sir, if I told you all our secrets, you wouldn’t be…”

 

Something between a shriek crossed with a bellow came across the radio from the 378 and cut off the ET2.

 

“LAUREL, this is HAMILTON…where is our truck and the keys to the warehouse, over?”

 

At this point, you can pretty much guess that ET2 was nowhere to be seen, the XO ignored the radio, and the OOD walked away…which is what I did.  I can’t confirm this, but apparently, our ET and MK2 stole the van and key and essentially raided the warehouse…twice.  Well, I figured the Coast Guard brought it on themselves.

 

About 1600 rolls around, and we were to be underway in two hours.  I was on the quarterdeck with the FS1 talking about menus when the XO comes all but running up from the wardroom, across the fantail to the quarterdeck, and throws me a key ring.

 

“Bring the truck to the 378 and hurry back.  The Commandant will be here in 20 minutes.”

 

You have got to be kidding was the first thought that came to mind…other thoughts also entered my subconscious voice, but I probably can’t write those on the off chance my nephew ever reads this.  

 

“Mmffmmfmmmfmmph” that’s the best approximation of my mumble that I can come up with.

 

“What was that, Mister?” our XO was pretty good.

 

“Yes sir, be happy to bring the stolen van and keys back to SOPA” this was like Han and Luke bringing the plans back to the Princess only to find the Death Star.

 

I wormed my way around the base toward the 378, parked the truck at the far end of the pier, and as nonchalantly as possible strolled toward their watch shack with as much confidence as I could manage, which wasn’t much.  I loitered around the shack for a second until I saw an OOD-like officer in trops…made my commando approach, and threw them the keys, told thanks and that we were getting underway tomorrow morning.  Now, if you note, I didn’t tell them who was thanking them and tried to throw them off the case by lying about our underway time.  I then, with little dignity, ran back to LAUREL.  It was one of those trips…

 

OK, the deed was done, career still basically intact, underway soon and out of danger.  Remember though, I was an ensign; nothing is that simple, ever.

 

Out of breath, shirt untucked, spilling sweat all over the pier, I ran into the Commandant, the Seventh District Command, and about 138 (give or take) captains who had come to visit the cutters in GTMO, including LAUREL. Nearly back to the boat, and I am caught by more stars than I bet Carl Sagan could count.  I tried to salute, greet the senior officers with some form of decorum and made an utter ass of myself—in front of the CO and XO on LAUREL’s quarterdeck.  It was one of those trips….

 

The story continues…

 

 

Part II…The Return

 

 

Mercifully we took in all lines and sailed toward the claw of Haiti to rendezvous with CGC THETIS to take 183 migrants off their deck.  This was the easy part; get the migrants, bring them back to Cuba, and wait for someone to take them.  My experience with Haiti was limited to TV reports and stories from other Coasties.  I assumed they were not that smart, didn’t have much pride, not clean, basically not a fine people.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.  We had a reasonably uneventful transfer with the 270 and started a slow steam back.  Although at one point during the transfer, the deck was a wee bit unorganized, and the Captain polity requested (read: ordered) that our XO get below and take charge.  This was a Mastercard-esque moment…the look on XO’s face was priceless.

 

The migrants on deck were from the same village and made every effort to recreate some semblance of order.  They made an area for families with kids, asked for paper and pens and made meal tickets to ensure everyone received a meal, and at night sang songs together.  Someone produced a bible, and they organized a study group every night.  One gentleman came forward who spoke passable English and assumed the role of de facto leader.  When some of the younger men, late teens, early and twenties, acted up and tried to cut in line, the group policed themselves.  Every morning they had their own version of sweepers to keep the deck clean; when they realized that the showers were saltwater, they respectfully asked for freshwater for bathing.  Even though we had limited water, the Captain decided to grant their request.  

 

This experience was quite the lesson learned for a young junior officer named Dow.  Families with small children, pregnant women, men older than my grandfather all tried to escape in an unseaworthy sailboat…risk everything to get away from Haiti.  Nothing in my mind could comprehend what would drive other people to such ends.  I then realized I had truly been an ass making the assumptions I did.  These were a fine group of people only wanting to improve their lives and provide a better one for their children.  How is that not an admirable trait, yet here we were preventing them from coming to the United States and sending them back.  It was one of those trips.

 

We made it back to GTMO and tied up to old battleship quays (pronounced “keys,” by the way, don’t blame me, I’m not Webster).  We were not ashore per se…we could secure the mains (turn off the engines) but no brow, no access to the base.  Unfortunately, we needed more supplies and a lot of them--quickly.

 

I was the XO’s Admin Assistant was a kind way of saying I was his bitch boy…it wasn’t a glamorous job—which meant I was in for the task of my career…being a bitch boy and all…

 

The XO called me into the wardroom to give me my quest, a pep talk, and a quick kick in the ass to get off the boat.

 

“OK, here’s the list of things we need.  You have as much time as you need.  Good luck.”

 

I looked at the list:

 

·      Enfamil…what in God’s green earth is Enfamil?

·      Diapers, Depends…are you kidding me?

·      Tarp from SIMA…where in the hell is SIMA?  What the hell is SIMA?

·      I can’t even pronounce the name of this pump…(probably from Viking)

·      Log and weather sheets…no way, we ran out of log sheets?

·      About ten other items ending with…a parachute.

OK…enough!!

 

“XO, parachute…parachute, what the **** do we need a parachute for, a parachute,” hoping that repetition of the word parachute would make it go away.

 

“The migrants.”

 

“Sir, I know the migrants, but what are we going to actually do with a parachute?”

 

“Shade.”

 

“Sir, what is the tarp from SIMA (still don’t know where that is) for?”

 

“Shade.”

 

It was one of those trips.

 

All right, I tried another line of questions.

 

“Is the YN (yeoman…administrative expert) or the SK (storekeeper…supply expert) coming in to help out?”

 

“Neither, too busy here, you are on your own.”

 

Suppressing a sigh that probably would have gotten me dismissed from the Coast Guard, I asked, “Well, how do I pay for this stuff?”  In my ensign addled mind, a perfectly legitimate question.

 

“Yeah, about that…do your best…can’t help you there.”

 

You got to be kidding me…

 

“OK, what radio can I get, probably not one of the coded ones, they…”

 

“No radio, can’t spare ‘em with the security teams.”

 

It was one of those trips.

 

So, I went to the buoy deck, took a little boat ride to the base on the RHI (rigid hull inflatable boat), and was left on the pier by myself.  No money, no help, no radio, and when I asked about a government vehicle, the XO actually laughed out loud and left the wardroom shaking his head.

 

I had little to no idea what half this stuff was, let alone where to get it.  So I figured diapers and Depends were the easiest…I’d just go to the exchange and maybe from there figure out where the DRMO (supply depot) was located.  I had to walk—remember no vehicle—and after only an hour of aimless wandering, found a sign that lead to the exchange.  It turns out that Enfamil is some obscure form of baby food and not too far from diapers, Depends were easiest enough to find.  And on the way out, I passed the record department (although records are pretty much extinct…it will always be the record department to me).  Well, a few weeks prior to our arrival U2 released Achtung Baby, their breakthrough and break away record (I was and still am partial to WAR….there best effort in my mind)…I am a slightU2 fan, so I thought I’d pick up the cassette (yes cassette, records, I am apparently old to these young bucks…).  You wouldn’t believe the consternation this caused while on my Quest for the Grail:

 

Is it legal for me to buy this cassette?

Is it fair for me to get this, and no one else can?

What if someone finds out that I used an official trip for personal business?

 

Wait…wait…wait a minute…I’m at the exchange in GTMO, Cuba buying BABY food with my OWN money, and I have to find a friggin’ parachute somewhere on this hell hole!!!  Momentary moral dilemma solved…I bought the record and couldn’t wait to get back and finally listen to it.

 

I have exactly three things on my albatross list (plus the cassette), and I am now forced to scramble to locate various and sundry items, cold calling places by begging Navy offices to let this Coast Guard ensign use their phones. You should have seen THOSE conversations and, better yet, my explanations:

 

“Hello, my name is ENS—“

“I don’t care, what do you want?”

“Yeah, OK, see I’m on the buoy tender that—“

“What the hell is a buoy tender?”

Again with one of my patented self-contained sighs…stay focused here, killer.

“Yeah, here to help with the Haitian migration issue, I just—“

“Kid, we are in Cuba, not Haiti.”

And so on, it was one of those trips.

 

So the day went on with my trying to find this conifal valve or that moondande converter.  It got to the point where I would stash my loot in bushes because I couldn’t carry it all.  At one point, a van with three Coast Guard YNs passed me and gave me a lift (I don’t think they knew I was an ensign) and took me to SIMA of all places.  Tarp recovered!

 

Two items left.  Log sheets and that damn parachute.  I had a buddy on COURAGEOUS and was confident I could get the log sheets but a parachute.  I asked, pleading, begging, cajoling people all day, and they looked at me with glassy eyes and told me to trundle away.  If this wasn’t tilting at windmills, nothing else was, but I felt a need to get this damn parachute and return triumphantly to LAUREL.

 

One final call, one shot, a warehouse on the edge of town, that no one goes to.  The van YNs turned me on to this; kind of a recycling plant, spare parts drawer, catch-all building.  I got the number and went through my routine, explaining to just get to the phone and made the fateful phone call.  

 

“Yeello,” the voice on the other end sounded bemused.

“Yes, I heard you carry some miscellaneous supplies.”

“Yep, sure do.”  He liked his “Y”s.

“Yeah, I need to get a, ahh, I was wondering if you had a…well” here it goes…” a parachute.”  I just expected to get humiliated by this.

“You are kidding me” here it comes…” can you be here in 10 minutes?”—very hushed tones…shhhhhhh we are hunting saber-toothed wabbits…

“You are serious? I’ll be right there,” like I could say anything else…even though I had no car, no directions…you remember.

 

I somehow found my way to an apparently abandoned-looking warehouse that was clearly not abandoned.  A gentleman wearing a greasy ball cap and non-military coveralls sat behind a counter reading a year-old issue of Popular Something.  He glanced at me and asked:

 

“You have to be that ensign that called.  Your lucky day, kid.”

He had no idea.

 

He pulled out a crumpled paper grocery bag that was in its at least 27th use and placed it squarely on the center of the counter.  And what to my wondering eyes did appear but a red and white parachute…queue the “Hallelujah” music.

 

“How much?”

“Nothing…just got it and, it’s not on inventory.”

No way.  “Thanks, man, you have no idea.”

 

It’s sad to say, but to that point in my career, this was the crowning achievement (and looking back, it may still be).  I still had to get the logs, but I spent the better part of eight hours on this base and got everything on my list!  

 

I went to COURAGEOUS, talked to a friend of mine, got the logs, and borrowed a radio.  LAUREL sent over the RHI, and with a landing party, I gathered up my hidden treasure to make my way back to the cutter.  En route, I called the bridge and asked to talk to the XO.

 

“LAUREL, LAUREL 1…is the XO on the bridge.”

“Roger that.”

“Can you ask him to go to the bridge wing?”

 

Our intrepid XO emerged from the bridge in time to see me in the front of the RHI a la GEN Macarthur with the parachute raised overhead in Stanley Cup fashion.

 

“How’s this for a parachute…that’s right….right here buddy…take this parachute and…” I said more, but I wasn’t as tough as I sounded…the XO couldn’t hear a word.

 

The supplies made it aboard…and the parachute…never went to the buoy deck.  When I left mighty LAUREL eighteen months later, I searched our cargo hold for about six hours looking for that damn thing to take as a trophy.  It was gone.  It was one of those trips.  On an interesting note, I made the Captain’s Christmas newsletter…he mentioned that I had some untapped talents in “acquisitions” and likened my trip as a cross between MASH and McHale’s Navy…I guess it was good to be known for something.

 

There is more to the story about LAUREL’s trek ashore and ringing the bell at the O-Club, but that, my friends, is a story for another day…

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Palmyra Atoll


Sea stories…told by sailors to anyone who will listen…often times proceeded with “no lie (or other colorful words), this is really true”; right away you know that about half of what you are about to hear is at best the faded memory of an old sailor who likes to tell stories…

Palmyra

We were underway en route Palmyra Island, a small speck of an island about 900 miles south of Honolulu.  Our task was to look for Japanese fishing vessels encroaching on our EEZ (Exclusive Economic Zone), trying to sneak into a place where our cutters couldn’t reach.  District Headquarters thought they’d trick the fisherman by sending patrol boat where no one had gone before—that was not necessarily true, but it sounds pretty good, and it’s a veiled Star Trek reference.  Our secondary mission was to contact the island’s keeper.

Palmyra is a privately owned island, and the owners did not want to get sued by wayward sailors looking for shelter and only finding a sprained ankle among the thick, tropical underbrush.  

ASSATEAGUE had departed Hono about 10 days before and made a brief stop for fuel at Johnson Atoll.  

Johnson Atoll, a little peach of an island, destroys chemical weapons for the US Army.  We arrived at JA shortly after a hurricane had introduced herself to the inhabitants and wrecked everything.  When the Captain and I had our inbrief, we had to be escorted to the base commander by two soldiers with gas masks hanging off their belts.  I thought this is no big deal; they destroy chemicals; it’s probably just some stupid regulation that requires them to keep the masks on their person.

“Sir”, the smaller sergeant began, “I’m sorry to say that your crew will have to stay aboard ASSATEAGUE while you’re here.”

“OK” said my Captain.

“The hurricane did a lot of damage to the containment units; we aren’t sure how well they’ll hold.  If you hear any kind of siren, I’d leave the dock as fast as you can, you just never know…”

He left that last bit just hanging there…you never know…like we were supposed to know what that meant.  

We met the CO in his office.  It was a typical military office, sparse, khaki-colored, with a few personal items, pictures, plaques, and such, but nothing memorable.  We spoke with the Colonel for a few minutes, did the obligatory invitation to eat in our “wardroom.”  He politely and appropriately declined the invitation.  Fortunately, we did not have to turn down his invitation to dine at their galley; there weren’t enough gas masks to go around…oh well.

The night at Johnston Atoll unfolded, thankfully without the need for gas masks, the same way any number of port calls, we had a barbeque on the pier and drank beer we bought from the commissary.  I think the Army took pity on us and escorted a couple of our guys to get the libations for the night.

We left Desolation Central for parts unknown, actually, we knew the parts, but how often do you really get to write “parts unknown!”  Our trip to Palmyra crawled along at a leisurely pace.  We had to conserve fuel, no Exxon station anywhere out in the deep blue Pacific.  

The four-hour watches faded into anonymity quite quickly.  One night, however, I spied the Captain with a sextant taking a…taking a….I still can’t believe it…taking a celestial fix!  That archaic art of “cel nav”.  Well, not to be outdone, I let the Captain know I took cel nav at CGA but really sucked at it.  He laughed the laugh of someone who knows his craft.  He told me I could try if I liked.  So, I did.  After a couple of weeks, we were shooting for beers.  Closest to the GPS fix was the winner.  The beers would have to wait until Hono, which is a good thing; he beat me every time but one.  I still have that UPS to prove I nailed that fix.

The few days from the Chemicalville to the paradise we were heading to were unequaled in my career for absolute FACness.  The mirror I used to shave in the morning had more ripples.  To this day, I have still never seen anything like this.  At night, the horizon and the ocean were indistinguishable.  The water was so smooth I almost felt terrible gliding through the ocean and waking it up at night.  

Palmyra is almost due south of Honolulu.  During World War II, I think the Navy used it as a seaplane base to protect Hawaii’s underbelly.  To the best of our knowledge, the SEABEES blasted a narrow, I mean NARROW like Olive Oyl narrow, channel through the coral.  We had no idea if that channel was still maintained.  The the island’s owners provided us with the name of the caretaker, Roger (although I was to find out that he was French), and told us we could contact him on marine band CH-16.  Seemed OK to me…

The morning of our approach was like all the rest, glass calm seas, early sunrise, bacon, and eggs.  We began a BARPAT about 1500 yards off the reef line and tried to call.  The Captain had me on the bridge make first contact.

“Palmyra Island, Palmyra Island, this is US Coast Guard on channel one six, over.”  Radiospeak is dry and stilted devoid of any attempt to sound human.  

No answer.

I try again.

“Coast Guard, Coast Guard, this is Roger!!”  Now, I am nowhere near skilled enough to try and capture Roger’s accent.  Just think Pepe LePew from Bugs Bunny, and you are in the ballpark.  He pronounced Roger more like “Roe-zhere”

“Palmyra, this is Coast Guard, we would like to proceed to lagoon and anchor.”                “Coast Guard, Coast Guard, this is Roger!  I have built a range, you come in on the , and you will be safe!  Look for the tree with the white paint, that is the rear range.”

I looked at the Captain to try and gauge what kind of response I should give.  It was great that Roger made this range, but I don’t think we were going to depend on that over GPS.  The captain chuckled a bit and shook his head.

“Palmyra, understand, range.  Appreciate the help.  Coast Guard Out.”

“Coast Guard, Coast Guard, this is Roger!  Do you have any dog food?”

I have heard many types of requests over the radio, but this was a first.  The bridge crew looked at me and knew I had no idea what to say.  We did not have a dog, nor did we have any dog food.  I had all I could do to keep a straight face.  I looked to the captain again in a feeble hope that he would end this misery with the Frenchman.  But he just shook his head, laughed a bit, and nodded toward the radio, letting me know that our buddy Roger was still waiting for a reply.

Again, radiospeak is inhuman, devoid of inflection and emotion.  In my best use of that language, I replied—

“Palmyra, negative on the dog food.  Out.”

“Out” in radiospeak means we are done; I’m getting off the radio to do my work.  To Roger, it meant keep talking.

“Coast Guard, Coast Guard, when you come over here, we will have a party!”

“Palmyra, Roger, we are making our approach at this time, Coast Guard out.”

“Coast Guard, Coast Guard…”

At this point, the Captain was laughing out loud at my apparent disdain for Roger.  He really couldn’t keep it in.  Because of that outburst, I missed Roger’s transmission.  I could either ask him to “Say again” or…

“Palmyra, Roger, Out.”

That must have been it, Roger was no more.

The transit into Palmyra was about as nerve-wracking as talking to Roger.  The SEABEES had done an admirable job of blasting a channel through the coral.  We could tell, I just looked out the port window, and we could see the coral about 2 feet off our sides.  Not a comforting thought, that close to rock that would rip our 3/8” thick steel hurt apart.  We finally ended up in the lagoon, anchored about 250 yards from the beach.  Anchored with us were two sailboats.  Both boats were on the downside of a good scrubbing, but they looked seaworthy.

Standard procedure for a cutter is to complete a boarding of these vessels; they were, after all, in US territorial waters.  I got suited up for a boarding.  I grabbed my weapons belt and body armor and headed toward the fantail.  I met the Gunner’s Mate and, we waited for the small boat to be lowered to the water’s edge.  We donned our lifejackets and sped off to the nearest boat. 

“Hello there, anyone aboard?”

            No reply from below.
            “Hey, onboard the sailboat.”

            Again, no reply.  

            Well, I figured they couldn’t have gone far.  I told the coxswain to head toward the other boat, we’d come back later.  The other boat was as deserted.

            This was a bit unusual.  We were just “milling about smartly”—a military term if there ever was one—when a gentleman at a makeshift pier waved us over.  I shook my head.  It had to be Roger.

            Roger was a deeply tanned man who could be about 40...or 25--it was hard to tell.  He was slight but had that wiry look of a terrier.  He had a leather band around his head, a loincloth (that thankfully covered quite a bit), and another leather strap around his right calf.  That strap held a flower and a small knife.  He was, pretty much, nothing like I expected.

            Roger’s enthusiasm from the radio continued in person.  He told us that we needed a tour of the island before we did anything else.  While that seemed like a splendid idea, I was a bit interested in two sailboats sans crews—I guess it’s just a Coast Guard thing.  Roger informed me that all was well; the crews were ashore—both men.  They were each sailing around the world, alone.  

            I resigned myself to a tour of Palmyra. Roger began with his home.  A roof with a back wall and three open sides was all Roger had.  He had a stone oven in his front yard, so he could cook bread …whenever he had flour.  I asked him about his supplies; patrol boats may be fast and glamorous, but they are not spacious.  We had enough food aboard for not much more than ourselves.  Roger told me a supply ship stopped by every four months or so.  It had been five months since he had a resupply.  This seemed like an issue that should cause some concern for most people.  I asked Roger how he got his food.  He motioned to follow him to the pier.  We passed chickens along the way; I mean a lot of chickens.  I don’t know how I missed them the first time around.  These were real free-range chickens too.   Roger said he would get eggs from them and occasionally kill a chicken for variety.  Variety from what was my question.

            The lagoon teems with fish life.  Roger dives once or twice a day to stock up on fish. 

            Great plan, except for the sharks I read about in “The Sea Will Tell.”

            “What about the sharks?”

            “They do not bother me!”  Roger said this with a bit of defiance that I felt might have been a bit much for Mother Nature to take.

            “And why don’t they bother you,” I asked.

            Roger took this as an insult, which it was, and preceded to lecture like I was back at the Academy.

            “The fish, there are so many fish, the sharks don’t need to eat Roger!  I stay close to the pier, and my friends stay deeper in the lagoon.”

            Well, it must be working because Roger didn’t have any fresh shark bites.

            We continued our tour around the island.  We saw the old bathtub Roger set up to catch rainwater, he took us to the old airfield and saw an airplane hulk. It was quite a pretty place.  Lush jungle, isolated lagoon, we were only missing Gilligan (actually, I was the first mate, which unfortunately makes me Gilligan).  We walked a bit with our erstwhile host and slowly sauntered back to his little bit o’ heaven he called home…I called it a shack.  At this point, we met our two world-weary sailors…they indeed were sailing around the world…alone.  We took our leave of Roger, who promised us to come back for a cookout later…I obliged but thought to myself this was the last I would ever see of Palmyra.  The gunner’s mate and I confirmed the two sailboats’ nondescript outer appearance…nothing to report…although each of the wayward sailors seemed genuinely glad to have someone to talk to beside Roger.  

            I finally made it back to the mighty ASSATEAGUE to report my “findings” to the Captain.  As XO, I figured we would stay the night, break out the grill, then play some cards and watch some movies on the mess deck…we would have too if I didn’t convey Roger’s offer to my CO.

“Of course we’ll head ashore…get the cook to break out the beer and ice.”

“Aye, sir,”  I wasn’t sure I had heard him correctly…Roger was just shy of being a nutcase, and we were going ashore…to barbeque!  Well, I knew as XO I should stay aboard which, is what I did.  

            About 1600, the radio crackled, it was the CO; he told me I should get my ass over to the pier immediately.  I told him that it was ok, I didn’t mind staying aboard watching over the cutter.  My CO informed me that he wasn’t asking but telling me it was a good idea for me to head over to the island.  A heavy sign and significant eye roll, later I was on ASSATEAGUE 1 heading BACK to Palmyra.

            Much to my relief, it seemed that the situation on the beach was tame.  Several crewmembers swam leisurely in the lagoon…sharks be damned, a few were gathered by the BBQ pit drinking cans of beer, the cook, the remainder of the crew, and Roger slowly grilled our dinner.  Ribs, chicken wings, and burgers.  Roger couldn’t have been happier…not only was he eating red meat instead of fish, he was drinking COLD beer…ice is quite the commodity on a small Pacific Island.  

            Other than Roger feeding his pet eel beneath the pier, this seemed like a situation that I could handle.  I thought that we would be here for another hour or so, then head back to ASSATEAGE.  On many levels I was an idiot for thinking that.  Roger casually mentioned that he would be honored to take us on a tour of his island.  To my dismay but not disbelief, the crew heartily accepted the invitation, and the lot of us were off, to where no one knew.  We traipsed through the jungle, following this waif of a man that none us knew, until we reached an old World War II concrete bunker.  Roger escorted us in; then it just got weird.

            By now, the sun had set, and it’s black, not dark.  Dark would imply you might be able to see something.  Roger had constructed a steel drum, and I have to admit, he did a good job.  Roger started playing a song for us. Like I said, weird.  His rhythmic beating slowly turned into singing; a song about two young people separated on two islands, longing for a…well you get the idea.  I was convinced at this point that Roger was going to kill us or some accomplice on the island was hiding in the black, laughing at us, and waiting to kill us or worse.  Neither happened.  Roger finished his song and quickly announced that we had to head back to the beach.  Relieved, I agreed and rounded up the crew and followed Roger.

            Yet again, I figured the night had wound down, and we would be heading back to the creature comforts of ASSATEAGUE.  I’m not sure how I could have been so wrong…again.  Upon arrival at the beach, the fire had dwindled, the food was gone, and the beer was about run out too.  This, however, lead our two around-the-world sailors to head back to their respective sailboats to bring back Pilipino rum.  I was crestfallen.  The crew started drinking the rum out of Mason jars.  My idyllic run on Palmyra ended.  I snapped.  I took a bottle of rum, stood on the table ,and drank it straight down.  I remember nothing until 0600 the next day.  Overall, it had been a bad day.

            Fast forward to the next morning…we get underway from the lagoon, head out to sea to resume our patrol.  As we are making preparations to leave, I see some movement on Roger’s boat.  It was not a good idea, but I took the radio down of the cradle and called Roger,

“Cous Cous the is cutter ASSATEAGUE”

“Coast Guard, Coast Guard, how are you this morning?”  Roger asked this with too much enthusiasm for my taste…and my headache.

“Fine, fine, are you making preps to leave the island?”

“Yes, yes, my friend (and I for the life of me forget his name) is going to take care of my island… I am going back to Honolulu to get in touch with my daughter.”

“Roger that…ah Roger” it was one of those days…

We completed the rest of the patrol…uneventful…and the end of our Palmyra excursion.

Or so I thought…

Fast forward a few weeks…a friend asks me to check out some boats in the marina for sale.  We were riding our bikes, and there in front of me—in the same loincloth, although with flip flops and a tank top—is Roger.  I damned near fell off my bike.   After screeching to a stop, I look at Roger and say—

“Hey…Coast Guard!!.”

Amazingly, Roger breaks into a huge grin and proceeds to tell me that he is selling his boat and flying to France to see his daughter.  I don’t have the patience, time, or courage to point out the gentleman he left on the island may be wanting for a relief.  So be it.  Roger and I exchanged pleasantries, discuss the best party we had ever been too and part ways…never to be heard from again…

Well, no.  While that may be technically true…when I left CGC GRAND ISLE in 2000 (my own command of a patrol boat), my XO gave me a copy of “ACROSS THE WATER” (great book).  Well, in it is a much better account of Roger…and its all true…no lie.